EDIT: SS16 RICK OWENS 'CYCLOPS'

Rick Owens’ SS16 collection titled ‘Cyclops’ references the formidable mythological creature with focused vision; like the creative eye of Owens himself whose vision for the collection is both mythical and propulsive. Cyclops’ aggression plays out through deconstructed uniforms, complex silhouettes and tattered fabrications. The collection collapses into progressive sensuality with elongated proportions, transparent leather pieces and iridescent finishes that point in the direction of transgressive individuality.

Fixated on the ambiguity of the M-65 field jacket; originally issued in the Vietnam War by the US army to symbolise military dignity which later came to represent an anti-war statement, Owens focuses on the jacket’s contradictory nature through its reconstruction and reworked fabrication. Cut from high-tech fabrics and leathers, jackets receive harsh treatments to produce decaying surfaces and an aged aesthetic.

Chaotic lengths, enhanced volumes and sculpted silhouettes feature this season with maxi tank tops, oversized T-shirts and stiff, dropped crotch shorts. Boxy shirts and vests take on longer proportions whilst layered drapes add dimension to simple tunics. Cashmere blend sweaters, tactile cotton organza T-shirts and sheer layered pants are paired with classic leather Geobasket and suede Island Dunk sneakers in dark and earthy colourways.

Fabrication plays an instrumental role this season in defining the essence of the collection. Long inspired by modernist artist Steven Parrino, Owens’ pieces take on an archaic, nihilistic attitude with slashed canvas tops, cracked paper-like jackets and high-shine foil panelled detailing. Technical translucent leathers are waxed and preserved whilst others are crumpled and glazed in burnt oranges and scarlet reds.

Centred on luxury leather pieces, elongated lengths and technical fabrications in Owens’ signature dark colour palette, the SS16 collection’s severe silhouettes and sharp elegance result in a directional and emotional expression.